My Favorite Stops Along The Tohoku Shinkansen

 

Express trains that run from Tokyo stretching far up into Northern Japan to Hachinohe are called Max Yamabiko/Max Nasuno/Yamabiko/Nasuno/Hayate with stops to some of the best places in Tohoku region.  The list of stations along this line, starting from Tokyo: Ueno, Omiya, Ayama, Utsunomiya, Nasushiobara, Shin-Shirakawa, Koriyama, Fukushima, Shiroishizao, Sendai, Furukawa, Kurikoma-Kogen, Ichinoseki, Mizusawaesashi, Kitakami, Shin-Hanamaki, Morioka, Iwate-Numakunai,and finally Hachinohe.   Since my focus for this post is food,nihonshu, stations and shrine related, I will only focus on what certain stations have to offer along these lines. 

 

For starters,whenever riding on one of these express trains, you should pick up a nice lunch box.    Both Tokyo and Ueno stations offer deluxe lunch box sets, each featuring the local delicacy of these two cities.  You have to request the really good ones  since there may not be any in the display case - they sell out quickly.  The next station worthy of mention along this line would be Utsunomiya Station.   From there if you have a non-reserved ticket you can get off at this station and head down stairs to MinMin, which is a a famous gyoza place for a break without having to actually leave the station, and since this is where most tourist like to visit for gyoza, chances are you'll discover a new taste.   Whenever I'm up this way I stop over for a nice gyoza set.

 

Next stop along this line is Nasushiobara in Tochigi which is famous for hot springs, cheese, and some nice tasting nihonshu - one recommendation would be Daina and Souhomare.  After that stop, you have Shin-Shirakawa.  Tourist don’t go there, unless you are a local from this region and you know some nice eats.   Some of the greatest Fukushima style ramen places are located here, especially if you like wantan(dumpling) in your ramen.  I can recommend two very good local favorites. This is the city that also has my favorite confectionery store called Akebono's.  Koriyama is the next stop with it's delicious mangu and sweet cakes.  One stop after this is a major stop at Fukushima Station, which connects four other lines; Yamagata Shinkansen, Ou Line, Tohoku Line, Abukuma Kyuko, and Fukushima Kotsu.  From Fukushima station you can enjoy a nice super sento, public bath that's built right into the station building near the back, then afterwards enjoy a nice cheesecake at the Italian Bistro, all of which are located in the station.

 

From Fukushima you pass Shiroishizao and after that station you arrive at Sendai, another major stop.  Sendai station is really cool because they have some good restaurants located in and outside of the station.    I recommend crossing the main intersection and heading over to where the neon lights are.  There are several gyuton shops that offer this local specialty( beef tongue BBQ place), which aren't that bad really.  I still freak out a bit because it was tongue and not ass I was eating last time.  Sendai is the largest city in Tohoku with a history dating as far back as 20,000 years.  Even during the suppression of Western religions such as Catholicism and Christianity, during Tokugawa's reign, Catholicism flourished here, even still today.

As we continue along we come to Furukawa and Kurikoma-kogen, which are notable for their milky white sulfur onsen.  The hotel I stayed at while up there. A picture I took with an IZ-20 of their private bath. Something else that noteworthy is this dango and this here.

 

Some other notable place along this line would be Iwate, which is famous for Chuson-ji Konjiki-do with its beautiful architecture, designs and craftsmanship. It's located about 9 minutes from Ichinoseki Station.  I've been there and it's well worth it just for the pictures alone.  If you have an interest in Buddhist architecture then this place is a must.  Every Japanese once in their life time must make a trip to this place before they die.  That's a true saying, by the way....
And, while we are still in Iwate, Jodogahama would be the next best place to stop through with its volcanic rock inlet created 52 million year ago, which according to some sage monks, resemble the heaven of Buddha.  By far, this is the most exotic of all the beaches I have seen thus far( inlet is just a fancy word for beach).   Two hours from Morioka station and 20 minutes by bus from Miyako Station one can reach this inlet by the sea.  If you get hungry and want to enjoy seafood near this station any place is good.  My  favorite place is called Bureko and is ran by an old couple that really took good care of me the whole time I was there. 

 

After dinner, heading over to Hanamaki Onsen is a must for the weary traveler with its geo-thermal hot springs.  The famed Japanese writer Kenji Miyazawa wrote haikus about this place with its abundance of cherry trees and rose gardens.  I have personally been to Hanamaki ten times; twice a year for five years and could probably write things about this area that would thrill the imagination, but won't for now – no time. The next day you can head over to Koiwai Farms, which is Japan's largest integrated farm dating back more than 100 years.  The nearest station is Morioka and 40 minutes by bus from there to the farm.  I recommend only two things: The steak and the cheesecake!

Last noteworthy stop would be Hachinohe, and from here you can visit the Hasshoku Center, which is about 9 minutes by bus.  Here you can find wide varieties of freshly caught seafood, even shark!  I took a picture of a shark that had just been snatched out the water.  Finally, we have Oirase Mountain Stream, which has a beautiful 14-km mountain stram surrounded by thick virgin forest.   From Hachinohe station; 1 hour 45 minutes by bus.  Best time to visit would be between April - October.  These suggested places are just a small introduction to this vast region of heaven.  I listed six major destination, and a few minor stops that I feel identify what I love about this area.

Stamina Curry: バーグ

Last night a customer recommended a nice curry shop called Bagu(バーグ), which sells something called stamina curry.   Now there isn’t a lot of information out there that clearly defines where the stamina comes from.  My customer told me it comes from the garlic they add to the sauce that gives this curry its stamina claim.  So, I had to answer the call to duty and visit this place today.

From the Yokohama city subway line take Exit #6 at Isezaki-chojamachi station. 

You’ll immediately see a dentist off to your right as soon as you exit.  Keep walking straight down this street.

You’ll know you are headed in the right direction because you’ll be walking along  Yayoicho street, to which the street sign should always be on your left-hand side.

Last landmark is the red “P” sign you see off to your right.  Keep walking.

Here it is, on your right hand side walking from the station.  Total time from station to shop is 5 minutes on foot. 

If you decide to take the bus from Yokohama station board bus# 110 and get off at Isezakicho-chojamachi bus stop.  The bus stop is right in front of the subway station then follow the directions I just gave.  What I immediately noticed upon entering is the level of cleanliness and at how many customers were there.  I was impressed.  Many customs were salarymen and locals, women, and children.  There was even a line outside for take-out.

Just as this place was recommended to me I recommend it to my readers because if you like curry, chances are you’ll love this shop. 

The hardest part about ordering is choosing from all the different curry dishes!  I went with the local favorite called “stamina curry” with fried egg, you can opt for raw if you like.  The portion sizes are very generous.  This was the largest plate of curry I ever had in my life and as you can see I wasn’t able to finish it.  Average cost is between 750 to 1000 yen. They are open from 11 to 21:30 except Mondays.

I enjoyed this curry a lot, and could easily see myself returning in the future.  I ordered the largest size they had.  There are smaller portion sizes.  Another note.  The restaurant looked very clean and well maintained.  I requested a mild curry.  There is a spicier version available upon request.

Thanks for the recommendation Koji!

Final note: No English is spoken and no English menus are provided.  ph#045-242-3336

Gyoza Stadium: Osaka

I love gyoza.  I love em’ in all shapes and sizes, too.  But, I really love them  just the way they are, plain…. And I wouldn’t be caught dead singing that tender love song by Billy Joel  called“ I love you just the way you are” in public.  I have been accused of talking and singing to myself in that way once before.  Like when I was holding that gyoza in my chopsticks, up to the light, and then uttering those lyrics.   The way I see it is that because gyoza is so popular, there should be a theme song for it. 

(“I often tell “gfs” this.  When it comes to make-up, less is best.  The way you look every morning is the face I will see more of, not the made-up face.  I want to appreciate your natural look just the way you are”).

Simple and natural.

Sometimes a little make-up is good - mayo. By the way, the meat used in this gyoza is cow tongue.  Makes you wonder whether we can taste each other…

The gyoza stadium wasn’t hard to find at all as it’s located on a busy main street that I will list later. 

_______________________________________

Moving from cow to shrimp was a pleasant change for the better.  In this pic below you see ebigyoza or shrimp gyoza. 

_______________________________________

 

There’s a hot plate underneath sizzling the gyoza.

These little small sized gyoza are called hitokuchi gyoza or bite size gyoza

___________________________________

 

Another delicious gyoza with mounds of green onion marinated in vinegar.  This was very good.

___________________________________

This is a jumbo sized gyoza, so I only ordered one. 

Last but not least.  The large tall frosty mug.

In conclusion, rather than give my own opinions, I would like to spread some link love by introducing other blogs that have also blogged about this place.

 

Two of my greatest experiences with gyoza can be found here and here!  Neither of these restaurants can be rivaled in my opinion.

_______________________________________

First, there’s Cabel who’s a real gyoza aficianado and excellent writer.  And then we have our favorite gaijin magazine Metropolis, which featured the Gyoza Stadium.  Next up is Rameniac, which was a fun article to read. 

Living in Osaka wrote up a brief intro. as well.

Pretentious Poof!

Got a really nasty comment on my “ First Konyoku Experience” link from somebody using the name “Dragonlife” this afternoon. It was posted under anonymous. With gmail you can actually see the name of the person who sent it. She claimed to be a hot Japanese chick.

I was called a pretentious poof. I need to answer this comment because I feel that a lot of people think I come off as someone who is pretentious when in fact I’m not. I admit, I am no expert, but I do have a lot of knowledge and experience when it comes to onsen and sake. That cannot be argued!

A pretentious person is someone who attempts to impress by affecting greater importance, talent, culture, etc., than is actually possessed. One, I have never attempted to impress anyone, and never will try either. I only wish to convey my experiences and my knowledge of sake and onsen. There are millions of foreigners living and working in Japan, and many of them blog about their experiences in Japan, just like I do. I’m not merely a passive observer, I take part and immerse myself in the culture and the language. That doesn’t make me pretentious. Cultured would be a better word. I know some Japanese who never bother to learn English, even after living in a Western country for years, but return to Japan then consider themselves experts on living abroad by feeding negative stereotypes about people they couldn’t even communicate with.

I suppose if I was an arm chair traveler who tried to impress someone - because I read a book – then maybe that would be a pretentious person who was trying to pass him/herself off as a subject expert when in fact they have no first hand experience regarding half the things they blog about themselves.

Number two, I love Japanese culture even though some of its aspect are alien to me. I think a lot of Westerners love Japanese culture and take part in its national pastimes. They don’t do it in order to be or sound pretentious, I think. I place value on onsen and sake, as that’s the foundation of my blog and the cornerstone of my passion for living here. The reason being is because I have been to so many and find that they are rich sources of healing and beauty and are very peaceful places that blend nature and beauty together perfectly. Unfortunately, they are under appreciated and under valued because of the modern conveniences of home bathing systems and changing attitudes.

Nihonshu, like wine, is like drinking the history of a nation. Nihonshu is the national drink of Japan. It is a drink that blends well with Japanese cuisine, and more. It’s aromas and textures are what set it apart from all other spirits.

Then there’s Mishima who represents for me a man who values the arts, tradition and the ‘old way.’ The old way for me, however, is imbibing on Sake, taking onsen, and fawning over imperial symbols. These elements are waning in popularity now and although there are fewer nihonshu drinkers and onsen dippers, and emperor admirers, Japan is still a very beautiful country for me. But, this beauty is subjective because it’s my interpretation of beauty in Japan. Mishima’s can only be understood by him, and him alone. I don’t claim to speak for him or any man for that matter. I speak for what I see and bare witness to.

But the pain….The slow death of this country is excruciatingly painful for me to witness….like when I visit an onsen ryoukan where families used to gather for respite and kinship are now empty and hollow. No life. Families would rather either travel abroad to foreign lands, or do their own thing separately. If there are no patrons then these hotels close down along with their onsen.

Mishima’s pain was associated with beauty & death, mine is similar. I have a deep association with the things I blog about because I believe they are what set Japan apart from other nations and peoples. Mishima was plagued with contradictions in his life and work. Having to be a husband and a father, a homosexual, a writer, a nationalist, a provider. I also struggle with contradictions, too.

Poof is a term that means effeminate or homosexual man. I can see how this could be construed, but I don’t see what a persons sexual orientation has to do with anything. I love Jukujo. Mishima loved men. These are our sexual orientations. Why is that such an issue? I have found a harmony between sake, food, Jukujo, and fine cuisine. It is a wonderful balance between elements tied into the “Japan Experience.”

About my writing,

I’m not a writer in the traditional sense. I write what I feel, which may or may not appeal to some people. My blog will never be popular because of the content and style that I choose to use, that also includes my writing style, too.

The blog was never intended to take off and become great. Nevertheless, I try to promote it because I think people need a different perspective on Japan besides the usual stuff. My drive is to document how I see Japan based off of my experience and my love for the substance of this country. Mishima yukio was the last great Japanese man to die for something most people didn’t even believe in! They laughed at him because he advocated a return to the martial spirit and the arts and emperor worship. It is not a crime to worship your own Japanese emperor.

My infatuation with Japan has nothing to do with manga, school girls, toys, and blow-up dolls, and random happenings about issues facing us.

Kizakura Lunch

Enjoying a nice lunch that was half off the original price.  I think I paid only 300 yen for the sushi, and the sake was complimentary from a sake buddy.

The sake is called Karakuchiitsukon. Very dry and fruity, which works very well with sushi

And all over a very nicely written guide authored by Micheal Plastow on Exploring Kanto, weekend pilgrimage Tokyo.  I think I’ve already got my weekend figured out.

Yume Akari Asabiraki: June Sake Swap

First and foremost I would like to thank my June Sakeswap partner  R. Staehlin at Lostininaka  for sending me this fantastic sake from Iwate prefecture called Yume Akari ( Dream & Light) by Asabiraki, which  uses 100% Hito-Me-Bore from Iwate.   Boy, I couldn't of asked for a better sake swap partner.    May the good Samaritans wash his feet!

This Junmai- Daigenjyo is minus one sake level; amino acid 1.0 and acid level 1.3. This sake is smooth & fragrant; mild with a clean finish. The Toji's name who created this is Mr Masahiko Fujio, nambu Toji.  Recommended food for this would be Shyabu Shyabu, sea scallops sautéed in butter, and tebasaki.  Halleluya!  Amen praise lord.

Lesson time: 

According to the Toji (brew master) the name was inspired by the night lantern festivals of Asahikawa, in Hokkaido, but the spiritual essence of this sake is found in the people of Iwate, and the harmony of rice and water in the brewing techniques of the Toji who created this sake.  The brewery where this sake was made is called Asabiraki and was named by a samurai named Genzo Murai who took his inspiration from an 8th century poem from the Nara period denoting blessing for a voyage.

In conclusion, I have been to the Nanbu Toji brewery in Iwate, and I have also travelled extensively throughout Iwate.  I have tasted of Iwate’s legendary hospitality.  I have felt the warmth of its people.  I have drank from her chalice.  I am familiar with the people and their rice.  I have stayed in several of their finest hotels.  And for me, this is what embodies the Soul of Iwate.  These few pictures here:

Yume Akari (above pic)

Morning natural and simple Iwate beauty; natural smell, natural body,  all natural.  By the way, according to the Toji, this sake embodies three character attributes that are found in Iwatean women: しとやかなかおり - Calm, feminine, and assertive. 

Airinkan Onsen of Iwate, Prefecture.  One of the finest onsen ryoukans I have ever stayed in.

Sannoiya Rock of Iwate.  Remember to click the links about for more explanation about the rice.

Thanks again Lostininaka and Andrew.